If you've ever wondered what the original Nestle Toll House chocolate chip cookies were like before the modern butter-based version, this recipe is a fascinating piece of baking history.
It comes from an interview on a radio program called Uncovering The Original Toll House Cookie Recipe with Maria Stefanos. The recipe was shared by Peg, the daughter of Sue Brides, who worked as Ruth Wakefield's assistant at the Toll House Inn..
According to Peg's memory, this version is extremely close to the cookies Ruth Wakefield originally baked, but with two key differences from the modern Nestle bag recipe. First, the cookies use shortening instead of butter. Second, the baking soda is dissolved in water before being added to the dough
The ingredient proportions are also slightly larger than the printed Toll House recipe most of us know today. Many thanks to Peg for preserving this little piece of cookie history.
Butter vs. Shortening in Original Toll House Cookies
One of the most interesting things about this recipe is that it uses 100% shortening instead of butter.
When I tested the cookies using an equal weight of butter, they spread noticeably more. The shortening version produced thicker cookies with a softer, more uniform texture.
Butter will always win for flavor, but shortening creates the classic bakery-style thickness some people prefer. If you're baking for people who like a soft, thick chocolate chip cookie, this version is definitely worth trying.
Does Dissolving the Baking Soda Make a Difference?
Many vintage Toll House recipes instruct bakers to dissolve the baking soda in a small amount of hot water before adding it to the dough.
I tested both methods:#1. Baking soda dissolved in water and #2. Baking soda mixed into the flour. The cookies came out very similar. However, dissolving the baking soda may help distribute it more evenly through the dough, which could explain why older recipes used the technique.
Room Temperature Eggs -- Does it Matter?
Most baking guides recommend bringing eggs to room temperature before mixing them into cookie dough.
Cold eggs sometimes cause the fat to seize slightly, which can make the mixture look curdled. Room temperature eggs emulsify more easily with the fat and sugar, creating a smoother dough.
That said, if you're using a powerful stand mixer, cold eggs usually work just fine in this recipe.
If you want to warm them quickly, simply place the eggs in warm (not hot) water for about 30-60 seconds.
Small Batch Shortening Chocolate Chip Cookies
If you'd like to try the recipe without making a huge batch, here is my scaled-down version by weight. I always make Toll House cookies using grams for consistency.
- 96 grams shortening (half of a Crisco stick)
- 72 grams brown sugar
- 72 grams granulated sugar
- 1 large egg
- ¾ teaspoon vanilla (or ½, I like a little more)
- ½ teaspoon salt (2.5 grams salt)
- ½ teaspoon of soda dissolved in ½ teaspoon hot water (2.5 grams soda)
- 132 grams of King Arthur all-purpose flour (or any brand)
- 1 cup or more of your favorite semisweet chips
I didn't see directions in the radio show transcript so I just creamed the butter and sugar thoroughly, added the egg and beat until light (sometimes I do the opposite and barely beat the egg at all, but in these I whipped it). Beat in vanilla and salt, followed by dissolved baking soda and flour. Fold in chips (and nuts if using), scoop out balls and bake at 350 for about 13 minutes. -- Makes 18 to 20
Nestle Toll House Chocolate Chip Cookie Bars
The original Nestle Toll House Chocolate Chip Cookies recipe works well for bars! I made small batch version in a square glass dish. They baked and browned evenly and their texture was chewy. They didn't have any butter flavor, but the texture made up for that. Also, since I knew I wouldn't have any butter flavor I used a few more flavors of chips and added pecans.
Shortening Thoughts, Crisco Sticks vs. Cans
I still like using shortening in some cookies because it produces a thicker texture and less spread. However, I've noticed that shortening doesn't seem to keep as well as it once did, and when it starts to age the flavor can be a little flat.
That may be due to the reformulation that happened around 2007 when most of the trans fats were removed from shortening. I'm not completely sure, but it does seem like older shortening loses its freshness faster.
If you don't bake with shortening very often, it may be better to buy the Crisco sticks rather than a large can. The sticks aren't quite as economical, but they're individually wrapped, which helps keep the shortening fresher.
Recipe
Possibly The Original Toll House Chocolate Chip Cookies
Ingredients
- 1 ½ cups Crisco brand shortening** (288 grams)
- 1 ⅛ cups light brown sugar (225 grams)
- 1 ⅛ cups granulated sugar (225 grams)
- 3 large eggs, room temperature (See tip at the bottom)
- 1 ½ teaspoon vanilla extract
- 1 ½ teaspoon salt
- 1 ½ teaspoon baking soda
- 1 ½ teaspoon water
- 3 cups plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour (King Arthur) (396 grams)
- 3 cups semisweet chocolate chips (about 1 ½ bags)
Instructions
- Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Have ready three baking sheets lined with parchment paper.
- With an electric mixer, beat shortening, sugar and brown sugar until creamy. Add the eggs and vanilla on medium speed for 3-5 minutes. Beat in salt. Dissolve baking soda in water and add to batter. Stir until fully blended.
- Gradually add flour, stirring until almost fully blended. Add chocolate chips and stir until chips are mixed in and flour is fully absorbed.
- Using a medium size cookie scoop, scoop balls of dough and arrange on baking sheets spacing 2 ½ inches apart.
- Bake one sheet at a time for about 12 to 14 minutes or until edges are slightly browned.
- Remove cookies from baking sheets and cool on racks. Repeat with remaining dough.
Anna says
Thanks Susan!
Susan Narup says
I have the original recipe in my grandmother's recipe box. I'm 58 years old.
1/2 c Crisco
1/2 c Brown Sugar
1/2 c White Sugar
1/2 tsp salt
1 egg
1/2 tsp Baking Soda dissolved in 2 tbsp water.
1 1/2 c flour.
Cream shortening and sugars, add salt and vanilla, add flour alternating with the baking soda water. Add chocolate chips. Bake 10 to 12 minutes. I double the recipe.
Anna says
Mollie, thanks for the tip! I'm going to add it to the main text of this so everyone can see it.
Mollie says
My mom and I keep our shortening sticks in the refrigerator. It extends their shelf life. Keeping them chilled prevents the shortening from becoming rancid.
Anna says
Gina, I'll add the old tip of dunking the eggs in warm water to speed things up. Sorry you had to wait for the cookies, but I'm glad the old Toll House recipe worked for you.
Gina says
Cookies are delicious! They turned out fluffier than traditional Toll Houserecipes. I didn’t realize the recipe called for “room temperature” eggs, so we had to wait quite a while til we could continue.
Anna says
Hi Pam,
That's a great question! Margarine has a lower melting point than shortening, so that's the first reason why the cookies won't be the same. As a kid, I made margarine cookies all the time and they were very good, but those same recipes from back then won't work now because most brands of margarine are not the same as they were 30 years ago. They have less fat. So you can use it, but the cookies won't be anything like the originals. They'll be cakey and lighter and will taste like whatever brand of margarine you are using. Some brands taste pretty good (though not really like butter) and others are awful. If you do go with margarine, try to use the stick kind that still has 100 calories per tablespoon. I wish we home bakers had access to the kind of margarine bakeries which acts more like shortening.
Pam Sheller says
Hello! Toll House Cookie bakers:
I have a question...can I use part butter and part margarine? I looked and couldn't find anywhere it said if it's a no or maybe! I don't want a flat cookie! I have grandchildren that loves Toll Cookies!
Andre says
P.s. I'm 67 yrs old. Come from a family of 8 children. We made A LOT of chocolate chip cookies. Never all crisco and never all butter lol
Anna says
Sabrina, it should be scoopable since it's made with shortening. The ones that difficult to scoop are usually the doughs made with butter -- especially melted butter. I just have a habit of scooping the dough and refrigerating the shaped mounds, but I don't know why you couldn't just cover and scoop later.
Sabrina says
I'm curious if you ever refrigerate this dough and if it's still scoopable?
Anna says
Lee, I was wondering the exact same thing so I made a small batch as bars. They're even better as bars!
Sue, it was interesting to hear that Ruth Wakefield actually thought up the recipe on a flight back from Egypt.
Sue says
This is probably as close to the original as anyone can hope to get. I wish I could remember what we used when I was growing up.
Thanks as always for all of your tests.
Lee says
any reason not to make these as bars?